That´s right boobies … but we mean the world famous “Blue Footed Booby” of course. True to everything you hear about the Galapagos Islands, the beautiful Blue Footed Boobies are everywhere. They are a stunning bird to watch – seagul with bright blue feet – either standing on a rocky outlook posing for a picture or torpedo bombing into the water to catch their dinner.
We visited the following islands on our cruise:
- Baltra
- Santa Cruz
- Rabida
- Santiago
- Bartolome
The trip was very peaceful and had an “at one with nature” element to it that coming back to civilization has been quite a shock. Following is a day-by-day account of the cruise for those who are interested. Again so much happened in such a short time so alas, another lengthy read.
Day 1 of Cruise
On arrival at the Baltra airport we board a bus to the small dock to board our cruise ship for the next 3 nights. To our surprise this dock was covered in more than 10 sea lions as well as many famous Galapagos birds flying around to welcome us to this amazing national park.
The cruise ship (called the San Jose) had 8 guest cabins (twin share), was 34 metres long with a sun deck complete with bar, top deck for bird watching (and drying your washing) and a lounge and dining area on the sea level. Below aft was kitchen, crew quarters, engine, etc. So quite a nice size ship for 14 people on the tour plus 9 crew.
After the introductions (we had quite a mixed bunch on the tour – Aussies, UK, German, Brazilian and of course Ecuadorian crew), a little time to settle into our cabin and lunch on the San Jose we were off in the tender (zodiac RIB) for our first excursion to a northern inlet on Santa Cruz. We stayed in the tender for this one and went into an area called “Green Turtle Bay” where we saw Blue Footed Boobies, Turtles in the water (even some mating!), White Tip Reef Shark and Galapagos Pelicans (which are brown and not like the pelicans at home at all).
On return back to the boat we were able to jump off the back into the ocean for a swim – the water was around 15 degrees Celcius so nice and fresh to get the blood pumping and prepared for the swimming to come.
That night on the boat we had the welcome cocktail and an opportunity to meet the entire crew, all fitted out in their whites for the special occasion. Thus began the tradition of the Pina Colada.
Also this night we had a surprise visitor on board the back of the ship where you board the tenders (on the stern) – as I left the dining room a seal (or sea lion more accurately) gave me a “hello” from the back deck of our ship, fully on board out of the water before jumping back into the ocean.
Day 2 of Cruise
Today we visted both Rabida and Santiago Islands. Our day started after 7 am breakfast when it was back on the tender at 8 am off for a wet landing (meaning you have to wade out of the boat at the shore) on the Red Sand beach of Rabida Island. The sand is red due to the volcanic soil here comprising of red scoria. The beach was covered in Sea Lions and was our first opportunity to go snorkelling. The visibility was okay and we saw plenty of tropical fish but no turtles or seals joined us for a swim yet. We also saw a Sea Iguanas this morning.
By 10.30 am we were back on board the ship to leave for Santiago Island. After lunch we were back on the tender (I´m sure you see a pattern forming here) for a wet landing onto a Black Sand beach – black due to the lava formations – and this beach was covered in Sea Lions too! At this landing you also find the remains of the Salt Factory (1960) ruins. We went for a walk along the coast to discover 100´s of Sea Iguanas (they are very lazy while sunning themselves and there were so many you had to be careful where you walked), shore birds and a Fur Seal grotto.
We had another opportunity to go snorkelling off the Black Sand beach and we got to experience something amazing. Swimming with a green sea turtle. What an experience! We just followed it along as it was gracefully swimming about – it was not concerned by our presence at all. Truly a moment we will never forget.
We were back on board the ship by 5.30 pm and we made away across to Bartolome Island ready for the next day´s adventure. Evening ended with more Pina Coladas!
Day 3 of Cruise
An early start today – 6.30 am dry landing (meaing no wading in the water, straight up to rocks/small dock) to summitt a peak on Bartolome Island (114m) where you can view the lunar landscape (lava landscape), spatter cone formations (where the lava gas breaks through the lava after is cools and then forms a crater/cone) and a great view of Pinicale Rock and surrounding islands. After this we were back on board for breakfast then off to a wet landing on the Golden Sand Beach on Bartolome Island. This sand was much finer (more like home) but truly butter yellow in colour. Again this beach had its resident sea lions. Lucky for us these seals decided it was swimming time when we were snorkelling as when we were on our way back in from exploring the rocky outcrops and reefs along the shore a young seal decided to have a swim with us! At first it was a bit of fright as we had seen plenty of them “play” together and they tend to get a little rough, similiar to 10 year old boys might. But this seal swam right up to us and looped around us before it swam away (we had the underwater camera this day so fingers crossed we got a good picture). This was an exhilerating experience, not quite as peaceful as the turtle.
After this adrenalin rush it was back on board for a quick shower and off at 11 am for a dry landing and shore ride to Sullivan Bay on Bartolome Island to see and walk on the lava flow formations (the last eruption was in 1874). This was truly spectacular and in places the lava still looks wet. Here we also saw lava crystals which can only be described as onyx looking. We were hoping for Galapagos Penguins on this landing but, alas, it was not meant to be.
It was back on board the ship for a 12.30 pm lunch and the worst sea weather of the trip. We were heading to the southern end of Santa Cruz to the port of Puerto Ayora for our last day. It was originally meant to take 5 hours – due to the conditions (swells, head winds, etc) it took 8 hours. As per the previous post, some of us were not very well (and there was plenty of Travelcalm Ginger being taken as a preventor) we were seriously considering calling a taxi boat to spend the night on Santa Cruz. But after we made port and dropped anchor all was well – gastrolite and nausea medication before bed made for a big appetite the next day.
Day 4 of Cruise
We´re sure knowing we were departing the boat today helped immensely with sea sickness symptoms. Again today was up early with an 8 am dry landing at Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz to go to the Charles Darwin Research Centre. Here we got to see the giant Galapagos Tortises that are used for the breeding program. They keep them until they are 3-4 years old then have a tag and release system. We also saw Land Iguanas here which are quite different to the Sea Iguanas.
We went back on board the ship for lunch and to pack and say our final goodbyes to the crew. After lunch it was straight back to Puerto Ayora to get on a bus ride up to the highlands of Santa Cruz Island where we got to see Galapagos Tortises in the wild and walk through (sometime crawling) a lava tube formation. So we even got to experience some caving on this trip. The lava tube was approximately 300m long.
It was back to Puerto Ayora around 5.30 pm to head off to our hotel for the night (called the Red Booby) and to bid farwell to 6 of our tour mates who were staying on the ship for an extended tour. We were off at 9 am the next day back to the Baltra Airport to come back to Quito before heading off to Peru.
During the trip one thing remained constant - no one ever got tired of the Sea Lions. Right to the end when we were on the ferry coming across from Santa Cruz to Baltra to the airport when we saw our last seal on a marker bouy.
Hasta luego Galapagos Islands.