Well here it is, the post you’ve all been waiting for – our Inca Trail torture, oops I mean adventure.  Three days of serious trekking with the fourth day a 2 hour trek starting at sunrise as our last day on the Inca Trail before arriving at the Sun Gate of Macchu Picchu. Apparently the direct translation of Inca Trail means “up with the sun and start walking gringo”.  The trek was rated “moderate” by our trekking company.  Moderate compared to what?!?!  Brian mentioned potentially compared to circumcision without anaesthetic.  While we spent a few days at altitude prior to the trek to acclimatise (in Quito and then Cusco) it was not the same as having a 12-14 kg day pack each (we weighed them in the hotel at Cusco) and slogging it out at altitude for up to 10 hours a day.  

On a positive note the scenary was spellbinding – 360 degrees Andes, some snow capped and signs of terraces on the mountain sides everywhere (agriculture is the main source of business second to tourism).  On the trail there was at least one, most often more Inca archaeological sites to visit every day.  While some people may have considered these sites as “more rocks on rocks” , most were in awe of the architecture, the terraces for both agricultural purposes and building support on the side of the mountain and the feeling in all the sites.  While the end of the Inca era is one of war, each site had a very peaceful and harmonious feeling.  None as much as Macchu Picchu which was evidenced by our tour group laughing and “carrying on” like only a group of 70% Aussies could in a place considered the most sacred for the Incas.  It was as if we all had bubbles of giggles in our bellies that needed to escape … either that our we were delirious from the lack of oxygen and ecstatic that our trekking was now complete. During our journey we learnt a lot about the Inca religious beliefs.  Most are aware they worshiped the sun – the Inca (king of the Incas) was considered the Son of the Sun.  They also worshipped the earth/land referred to as the Pacha Mama.  Even today, before many of the locals have a drink a little is tipped out of the glass to the earth for the Pacha Mama.  They had 3 levels of their religion being the next world represented by the Condor, the earth represented by the Puma and the under world represented by the Snake.  Based on these few things alone, it is easy to understand why their temples and places of importance were all built on the side of a mountain – to worship both the Pacha Mama and the Sun.  Most buildings of importance at each Inca site faced east in most cases (to worship the rising of the sun), and if not east, an alternative cardinal direction for the study of an equinox or solstice. 

The total trek was 42 kms.  We started at 2600 m altitude with the highest point being 4200 m on day 2 to end at 2200 m at Macchu Picchu.   This took us approx 26 hours of trekking.  In comparison there is an annual marathon event for the same trail and the record is 3 hours and 45 minutes ! In all in the journey allowed you to imagine what it may have been like in Inca times to travel to their most sacred temples and buildings.  The path is preserved as much as possible and was not very straight or smooth, all uneven rocks and steps up, up, up and down, down, down.  The Andes do not really allow for switch back trails.  There was many a time I sent a blessing to Matt (my Personal Torturer/Trainer) for all the squats and lunges whilst carrying a medicine ball.  Bless you Matt.  

Also, Brian’s back fared well on the trail and he assures me felt better that it has in months.  We put this down to the back brace affectionately known as the camera porters back pack, and the sleeping on hard and flat ground in tents.  Although, the tent was quite funny as it wasn’t long enough for Brian with both his head and feet pushing it out at either end.  Lucky both did not quite touch the fly as we had rain during the nights. So would we recommend the Inca Trail?  I imagine the pain and discomfort of the trail is similar the pain of child birth … once you reach the destination all is forgotten.  And as mentioned you see many Inca ruins on the way that you wouldn’t see if you went straight to Macchu Picchu by train !!!  That’s right, train!  But we are sure that our muscles appreciated the hot spring baths at Aguas Caliente (translation hot water) after the trek.  This was a welcome relief to tired muscles plus the bus/train/bus ride back to Cusco helped.  We paid homage to the Sun God that we did not have to walk the Inca Trail back to the start. 

So yes, the Inca Trail was worth the journey to Macchu Picchu, but that train option on day 2 sounded like heaven.   Following is our day by day trip notes for those who are interested to keep on reading. 

Day 1

• Leave Cusco Hotel at 5.30 am via bus for 1.5 hours to Km 82 (this is Km 82 of train tracks, 0 kms being Cusco, km 110 Macchu Picchu)
• Start trek at 2600 m altitude at Inca Trail check point – stamp in Passport
• 8 hours trekking with stop for lunch
• Introduction to “Andean Flats” which means up or down, not flat at all.  Hard day of trekking. 
• 3600m altitude highest point today
• Campsite at Auyapata 3300 m

 Day 2

• Up at 5.30 am, leave campsite at 7 am
• 10.5 hours trekking with stop for lunch
• First mountain pass today 4200 m altitude at 11 am called “Dead Womans Pass” as from a distant looked like we walked over her belly, profile of head, breast, belly and legs from next pass which we crossed after lunch which was 3900 m.
• Campsite at Chaquiqocha at 3650 m.
• Very hard, long day – agreed no more trekking at altitude holidays!

 Day 3

• Up at 6 am, leave at 8 am.
• Highest point today 3640 at Phuyupatamarka
• More Andean Flats
• 3 hours down uneven rocky steps.
• First section of “real” Inca Trail with original laid stones in Inca times.  Rest of track has been restored or maintained to some degree.
• Total trekking today approx 6 hours.
• After checking into our tents and lunch at camp site visited temple considered second to Macchu Picchu “Winaywayna”.   Was an amputheature style terrace temple that was very tranquil and spiratural. 
• Shower today !!!  8 Soles including towell !!!  Would have paid 50 Soles at that point.
• Faith in trekking reinstilled today.

 Day 4

• Up at 3.45 am, leave at 5.40 am.
• Arrived at the Sun Gate to Macchu Picchu at 7.30 am.  Very moving, tears by many within our group.
• 3 hour tour of Macchu Picchu, many photos taken which we will have up in the gallery soon
• Bus ride back to Aguas Caliente
• Buy the “I survived the Inca Trail” t-shirt
• Visit the Hot Baths – pure bliss
• Train and bus ride back to Cusco (the transfer from the train from the bus was absolute kaos, buses within cms of each other pushing in to pick up their tourists, people waving signs in your face to see if you are their pick up – a real sensory overload after the peace of the Inca Trail).
• Arrive in Cusco around 7 pm to hit the town for dinner and Pisco Sours to celebrate our journey!